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Getting ready for your new baby
found things waiting just for you: a cozy bed, toys to play with, and a pantry full
of yummy foods and treats? Well, you want to welcome your new cat or kitten
just as warmly.
That's why you should try to bring your new kitten home when you have at least
a day or two to stay at home. This will give you and the kitten time to get
accustomed to one another. If you can avoid it, don't bring your new kitten
home during Christmas or some other holiday, or while you have visitors.
There's too much going on, and probably not enough time to devote to making
your new family member feel welcome and secure.
MEETING OTHER HOUSEHOLD MEMBERS
Once you and your kitten arrive at home, expect an adjustment period of several
days or - if you have another cat, a dog or children - a couple of weeks.
Your new kitten should be isolated from others for at least 72 hours. All animals
have their own viruses and keeping the new animal isolated with a gradual
introduction may help prevent illness.
The moment you arrive, show your kitten to the litter box. Litter boxes are
comforting to cats, and of course, your kitten will need to know where to find it
next time there is a need. Make sure the litter box is in neutral territory, away
from feeding dishes and sleeping quarters of other pets. Allow the new kitten a
little space while she introduces herself to other household members.
Almost certainly, your old cat will be instantly jealous and arch her back and
hiss. This behavior may last a few hours to a couple of days. Your dog may
growl menacingly or display a stricken look that says, "Hey, I thought you loved
me. What's she doing here?" A more common canine reaction will be a friendly,
but clumsy, curiosity which your new pet will probably not reciprocate. If your
dog is at all aggressive or high strung, keep him on a leash or separated from
the newcomer for the first few nights.
As for your kids, well, they'll wonder why they can't roughhouse with the new
kitten right away. Explain that you expect to have your cat for many years and
that there will be plenty of time to play after she becomes accustomed to her
new home.
FEEDING DISH AND WATER BOWL
Choose a feeding dish and water bowl that is easy to clean. Aluminum or
ceramic dishes are all good choices, try to avoid plastic, as many MEEZERS
have a mild form of allergic acne in response to the plastic. .If you already have
a cat or dog, your new pet can share the water bowl, but not the feeding dish.
Whatever kind of bowl you use, both you and your pet will be happier if it is
designed to not tip over. Some cats like to place a paw on the rim of the feeding
dish while eating, so a non-tip design is important.
We feed and recommend Evo cat food - if you decide to change the food from
what they have been getting, please do so over a period of time (to prevent
sickness). Remember that cat food - like human food is a buyers beware
situation - you get what you pay for. Cheap cat food - means cheap ingredients.
In terms of nutrition, your cat's first 12 months are absolutely critical. Inadequate
nutrition can stunt growth, impair mental development, and adversely affect
personality. Fortunately, it's easy to provide top-notch nutrition to kittens and
cats.
Keep these guidelines in mind:
Cats are carnivores. They require foods rich in animal proteins. So don't feed
your kitten grain-based foods. You can't obtain animal protein from grain, only
from the additives, and they may not provide the proper protein balance. Give
her food with animal protein, such as chicken meal, as the main ingredient.
Kittens need kitten food, not adult cat food. To sustain healthy growth, kittens
require a certain ratio of protein and fat, and a higher level of minerals and
vitamins, than adult cats require. . Also, size of the kibble is very important, a
kitten's small mouth needs smaller pieces..
Always have plenty of fresh water available regardless of the animal's age. Refill
the water dish with fresh water daily.
After a kitten is three months old, reduce feeding frequency to three times a day.
At six months, reduce to twice a day.
For normally healthy adult cats (most breeds require a year, a few as long as 18
months), place their daily requirement of food in the dish. Allow your cat to eat
"free choice" throughout the day. This style of feeding is crucial for maintaining
urinary tract health. If you feed canned food, throw out the leftovers from the
previous meal.
Once you find a brand of food your cat likes, stick with it. Don't be tempted by
the many varieties of cat food you see in the supermarket. Typically, these
brands are less digestible, which means more stools, and more stool odor.
Avoid any brand with by-products. Chicken by-products may include heads,
feet and internal organs. All of which are high in protein content, but most of
which cannot be digested by your kitten or cat, no matter how hungry she is.
Meat by-products can be equally non-nutritious. In contrast, Nutro foods
contain chicken meal, which is chicken with the water and fat cooked away.
This provides a more concentrated source of highly digestible protein for a cat.
Look for foods that contain sunflower oil or poultry fat. These are good sources
of essential fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, which give your cat a sleek, shiny
coat.
Don't "improve" a kitten or cat food with table scraps or leftovers. This alters the
carefully balanced mix of ingredients in the food and can cause diarrhea,
allergic reactions, or excessive weight gain.
Don't use any off-the-shelf additives unless your vet tells you to. A properly
formulated kitten or cat food will provide all the vitamins, minerals and fatty
acids that any cat needs. Adding ingredients can actually be harmful. For
example, Vitamin D can be toxic if it is not balanced by Vitamin A.
NAME TAG AND COLLAR
We require you to keep the kitten or cat indoors at all times, safe from the
dangers of cars, kids, poisons and wild animals. If you do allow your cat
outdoors, fit her with a name tag and breakaway collar (to enable her to escape
should she get caught on something). Your breeder might be able to prepare a
tag displaying your cat's name and your phone number. Chances are, however,
that you will have to get these from a pet store. If you do this ahead of time, your
new pet will have a name tag from the moment you take possession.
CAT CARRIER
You'll also need a cat carrier. If you travel a lot and expect that your cat is going
to spend much time in your car or in an airplane, then you will need a sturdy
carrier made of high-impact plastic or painted steel. Find one that has rounded
edges (easier to clean), a strong metal grill that fastens securely, and a large
handle. If you expect that the only traveling your cat will do is to and from the
veterinarian for occasional check-ups, then an inexpensive cardboard carrier
will do just fine.
A PLACE TO SLEEP
You might want to provide a bed for your cat, but be forewarned. Cats can have
very definite ideas of appropriate sleeping quarters, and even the most elegant
cat bed might not tempt your new cat.
A better solution is to fashion a bed from a small corrugated cardboard box. Cut
off the top, cut down three sides to about six inches high and cut down the
fourth side to three inches high. Then put a comfortable pad inside. Find a
friendly corner for the bed. If your cat boycotts your choice of location, watch
where she likes to sleep and relocate the bed. However, don't be surprised if
your cat ends up on your bed at night. Despite an aloof image, cats crave
human warmth and companionship.
SCRATCHING POST
While a bed is optional, a scratching post or cat furniture is a necessity, unless
your cat has unlimited year-round access to the outdoors in which case you
need a child not a cat. . The important thing about a scratching post is not how
big or fancy it is, but how soon you get your kitten accustomed to using it
instead of your furniture. We'll talk more about this when we get to Training and
Playing.
LITTER BOX
A litter box is another necessity. Even if you have an open-door policy, chances
are you'll need a litter box. Cats don't like to go outside in the rain or snow. And
there may be times when you won't allow your cat out at night, such as when
owls or coyotes have been reported in the neighborhood. When it comes to
litter boxes, bigger is better. A large box with high sides will reduce the amount
of litter that gets kicked onto the floor. A covered litter box with a top that opens
for cleaning is even better. Kittens younger than eight weeks will probably be
discouraged by high sides, so an aluminum or plastic pan that's a couple of
inches deep is a good choice. As your kitten grows, put the pan inside the litter
box. Remove the pan when she's used to the large box.
You can choose from many varieties of litters for your new pet. Your local pet
specialty retailer can explain the differences to you. You may find that the
texture or odor of your first choice doesn't appeal to your cat. Don't be
surprised if you have to try several brands before you find one she likes. Don't
use shredded newspapers, the absorbency is poor compared with cat litter.
Also, you don't want your kitten to get the idea that any newspaper is a litter
box. If you use high-quality litter, you only need to change it once a week. Clean
the litter box with hot soapy water. Avoid disinfectants, as they can irritate cats.
Remove dried feces with a scoop every day. When you clean the box keep an
eye out for differences in appearance and smell and they may help you to
identify illness early.
CHOOSING A VET
Even before you select your cat or kitten, select your veterinarian.
Recommendations from friends are your best guide.
Schooling and licensing qualify small animal doctors in terms of professional
expertise, diagnosing and treating disease. (They may not have received much
training in nutrition-which is also true of doctors who treat human patients.
Often, breeders or pet store managers are more knowledgeable in this area.)
The real differentiating factors are office location, office hours, fees, and most
important, bedside manner. You want a vet who shows a personal interest in
your cat, and who will take a few minutes to explain things. An abrupt or
uncommunicative DVM, no matter how technically expert, probably won't be
satisfactory.
We can recommend several very good vets, just ask.
Part of our contract is that you have the new kitten examined by your vet within
72 hours. This will help to establish a rapport with the kitten, vet, and yourself.
IMMUNIZATIONS
Your kitten has received the first set of shots at about 8 weeks, and may have
gotten the second series as well depending on its age.. Your kitten has had
vaccinations to protect from chlamydia, feline panleukopenia (distemper), viral
rhinotracheitis/calicivirus. Wait until your kitten is at least 20 weeks old before
vaccinating for rabies. Typically, state laws require only rabies immunizations,
but don't stop there. If your cat hasn't been immunized before she joins your
family, visit the vet on the way home from the breeders. Get all the shots
available. Most of these diseases listed are potentially fatal. Let your vet set up a
schedule for return visits and booster shots.
What about feline leukemia? This is a deadly disease, but opinions differ on the
reliability of available vaccines. Discuss this with your breeder and vet.
Many vets offer low-cost immunization clinics on weekends. An assistant
immunizes cats and dogs at a reduced rate. You save money, but your kitten
isn't examined by the vet and she should be, at least the first time. The vet will
examine her for ear mites, roundworms and other parasites and check her
overall health.
WHAT YOU SHOULD WATCH FOR
As a general rule, cats will not drink if they do not eat. Please keep a close
watch for the first couple of days to ensure that the kitten is eating. If not, you
can try some human baby food (meat flavors) to help entice them to eat
something. Do not ever feed canned tuna or fish (human food) as the smell is
very strong. Cats must be able to smell their food or they will not eat it - the
stronger smells may spoil them to want only that food.
In between visits to the vet, you should examine your cat regularly. If you find a
serious problem, take her to the vet as soon as possible. Watch for:
DIARRHEA This is most often caused by an improper diet (including milk and
other dairy products, which should never be given to a cat or kitten). Bacteria,
viruses and parasites are other causes. In any event, impose a 24-hour feeding
moratorium on your cat, and then resume feeding her only high-quality cat or
kitten food such as Max or Natural Choice. If the diarrhea resumes, it's time to
visit the vet.
EAR AND EYE INFECTIONS These are manifested typically be a runny
discharge. When ears are infected they may smell bad and your cat will
probably scratch them often. Visit the vet immediately.
YELLOW OR BROWN TEETH This is caused by tartar deposits, which can lead
to irritated or even bleeding gums, drooling, bad breath, and a sharp decline in
eating. A diet of dry cat food is an effective way to promote dental health in your
cat because dry food acts as a natural tooth cleaner.
EXTERNAL PARASITES Fleas and ticks, the hated foes of cats and cat lovers
alike, are the most common parasites. Symptoms are continual scratching and
loss of hair. Frequent combings, outdoors, will reduce the problem. Don't use
any flea and tick powders or poisons without your vet's approval.
VOMITING A cat's reputation for curiosity is well deserved, and usually vomiting
is just cat's way of getting rid of something that she shouldn't have swallowed
in the first place. So don't worry about occasional incidents. But if your cat is
vomiting several times a day, the cause may be hairballs, parasites or other
serious problems. See your vet.
HAIRBALLS (also called furballs) Each time a cat grooms herself, she ingests
hairs and skin flakes. This can result in vomiting, especially in long-haired cats.
Usually no harm is done, although sometimes hairballs take so much space in
your cat's stomach that there's no room left for food. You can help to reduce
hairballs by brushing your cat's coat frequently. You can also help by feeding
your cat Nutro cat foods. They're made from high-quality ingredients and
feature high levels of linoleic acid and zinc, nutrients essential for healthy skin
and coat. Fewer flakes and less shedding equal fewer hairballs.
OTHER SYMPTOMS These include difficulty eating, loss of appetite, sudden
weight loss or gain, bad breath, drooling, fur loss, dull coat, changes in skin
condition, red or watery eyes, runny nose, labored breathing, blood in urine or
stool, difficulty in urinating, sluggish, or unusual behavior and an elevated
temperature. Call your vet and promptly take your cat in for an examination.
HEALTH CARE YOU CAN PROVIDE
There are many health care procedures you can do yourself, especially after
some instruction from a vet. Your cat may not always show her gratitude, but
rest assured that in her heart she still loves you.
PILLS Forget trying to sneak a pill into your cat along with her food, it rarely
work. Instead, with your cat on your lap, lift up her head, then open her mouth
by pressing at the corners. Insert the pill as far back on the tongue as possible.
Then close the mouth and hold it shut while gently massaging the throat a few
times until she swallows. You can also try putting the pill in human baby food
and giving it to the cat as a treat. One of our cats, Maple, loves this and now
thinks that a pill is a treat. They do not have to be smart to be beautiful!!!
LIQUIDS Insert a plastic syringe at the corner of cat's mouth between her cheek
and rear molars, and squirt the medicine in a slow but steady manner.
TAKING YOUR CAT'S TEMPERATURE An electronic digital ear thermometer for
humans will work on your cat. These are expensive, but a real hassle-saver.
Just hold your cat's head with one hand and use the other to apply the
thermometer to the ear. Bingo, you have a temperature (it should be between
101 and 102.5 degrees. Your breeder or vet can tell you what's normal for your
particular cat). The alternative is the traditional rectal thermometer, far cheaper
but requiring at least two people in most instances. With the cat on your lap,
have someone hold her shoulders and forelegs firmly. Then lift her tail and
insert a thermometer (well lubricated with petroleum jelly ) into the anus. Gently
stroke her back and talk to her in low, reassuring tones for two minutes while
the thermometer takes a reading. With some cats, you'll need a third person to
hold down the rear legs.
EYE DROPS AND OINTMENT With one hand, hold your cat's head firmly, using
your forefinger and thumb to hold open the eyelids. Apply the drops or ointment
with the other hand. Be careful not to touch the eye itself with your fingers or
the tube or dropper.
EAR DROPS AND OINTMENT Again, hold your cat's head with one hand and
administer the drops or ointment with the other. If the medication is intended for
the ear canal, rub the ear gently to help push it into the canal.
BATHING, BRUSHING AND COMBING
Except for jaguars and some turkish angora, most cats detest water. The
SIAMESE breed generally does not require bathing. If you chose to bath the
kitten, introduce her to being bathed as early in her life as you can.
Don't use the bathtub, it's far too large and intimidating. A kitchen sink is ideal,
but a laundry sink, laundry tub, plastic dishpan or large, shallow pail will do. Put
a rubber mat or towel on the bottom and fill with lukewarm water. Hold your cat
very firmly and place her in the water. Wet her down, starting from the head and
working back to her tail. Next apply a pet shampoo. There are some specifically
for cats. Your breeder, vet or pet store manager can make recommendations.
Avoid getting lather in the eyes or ears. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. A
spray hose works best, but a second tub that's pre-filled can also be used. Your
cat will lick off whatever shampoo you miss, probably at the price of a
stomachache.
Dry thoroughly with a heavy, fluffy towel. Keep her indoors and out of drafts
until her coat is dry to the touch.
Combing out a cat is a lot easier because most cats like to be combed (and
virtually all love to be brushed). If possible, do this outdoors. If your cat has
fleas, you want them outside, not inside. If she is an indoor cat, comb her on
spread-out newspapers. This prevents fur and dirt from getting onto your
carpets and furniture.
Use a fine-toothed comb or a good cat brush as a grooming tool. Comb a few
inches at a time, starting with the muzzle and moving back. Follow up with a
bristle brush or, if her skin is sensitive, use a rubber brush. Work small sections,
from front to back. Then use a wire brush to remove dead hair, paying close
attention to the rump. Brush in some talcum powder to separate the hairs. Keep
brushing until all the powder is removed. Finally, use a toothbrush or other
small bristle brush to groom the short hairs of the face.
Remember, hairballs are the bane of cats, so frequent and thorough grooming
protects health.
TRIMMING OR REMOVING CLAWS
If your cat spends a lot of time outdoors, or is a faithful user of a scratching
post, there's no need to trim her claws. If not, then you'll need to do this every
three weeks.
The best position is to kneel on the floor with your cat between your elbow and
body. Grasp a forepaw firmly to spread out the claws. Using only a claw clipper
sold in pet stores, clip off only the tip of the claw. If you clip too much, you will
cut into the quick, which can be quite dangerous and painful for your cat.
Clipping any cat's claws is not easy. You might want to watch your vet, or a
professional groomer do this once or twice before attempting it yourself. You'll
have the best results if you start clipping when the cat is very young.
A cat can almost always be trained not to scratch what's off limits. Provide a
scratching post or board, show your cat how to use it and clip her claws on a
regular basis. Whenever she starts scratching something she's not supposed
to, clap your hands loudly, sharply say "no!", and take her to the approved
scratching area. Soon, just a clap of the hands and "no!" will stop unwanted
scratching. They do make gloves for claws and they work well if you can get
the cat to accept wearing them.
De-clawing is a very painful & inhumane surgical procedure that involves
cutting the tendons & nerves that control the extension & retraction of the
claws. In other words...it's just like amputating the lower part of each of your
fingers, where the first knuckle is. There are many Veterinarians that will not do
this procedure anymore...what does that tell you??? Cats need their claws for
protection against other animals and for climbing, even if they only reside
indoors. Cats claws are a natural growth just like hair & nails on a human.
De-clawing may lead to a very emotionally disturbed cat who may resort to
biting.
For more information about the problems of de-clawing click here or here for
specific articles about this topic.
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
Our sales contract requires you to have the cat spayed or neutered.. As a
responsible and compassionate cat owner, you want to ensure that no
unwanted kittens are brought into the world. Both you and your cat will be
much happier after the procedure since neutered males rarely mark their
territory (i.e. your walls and furniture) with urine and spayed females don't
become stressed and irritable when they go into season. Your vet will let you
when the best time is - we suggest between 4-6 months of age. Afterwards you
can send us a copy of the paperwork and we will forward you the cat's
registration papers. If you have false ideas about making money breeding cats
please read our page on How to Buy a Kitten which will explain the truth about
this.
TRAINING AND PLAYING
Because of their independent nature, cats are often considered untrainable.
That's not true. They can be trained-just think of the lions and tigers in the
circus. However, your cat doesn't need such a high degree of training. All you
want her to do is come when called, use the litter box, and not scratch you or
the furniture.
COMING WHEN CALLED
Cats respond best to positive reinforcement, not punishment. Food and a loving
voice are excellent positive reinforcements, so begin at mealtime. Call out your
cat's name, then add "Come." The cat should be hungry and will respond
simply in hopes of a meal. If you do this at every mealtime for a week, your cat
will automatically come when you call even when it isn't meal time. You can add
a clicker noise to a treat when ever the cat does something positive - soon the
smart kitty will know when he hears the sound he should behave in a certain
fashion. It takes a great deal of time but will work.
USING A SCRATCHING POST
To introduce your cat to the scratching post, place her forepaws on the post
and move them up and down in a clawing manner. If you catch her scratching
elsewhere, remember to clap your hands, sternly say "No!", and then put her
back to the scratching post. Once she starts scratching, reward her with a small
food treat, warm words, and some petting.
Never let your cat scratch you or other family members. Otherwise she will think
that is acceptable behavior and could cause serious damage. If your cat begins
to scratch, let your hand go limp and say "No!". Once she stops, praise her.
FUN AND GAMES
Kittens love to play four types of games. In play fighting, kittens wrestle with
one another. Even when they become strong enough to hurt each other, they
almost never do. If you want to join in, do so only while wearing a heavy leather
glove or an oven mitt.
Kittens eventually outgrow these games and it's just as well. Grown cats can do
a great deal of damage to one another.
Scooping fish is a game a kitten or cat can play all by herself. She finds a small
object on the floor, scoops it over her shoulder, turns and pounces. In the prey
pounce, your cat stalks an imaginary prey, comes to a stop, and then pounces
on it. "It" may be mother cat's tail, another kitten, or your shoe.
Closely related is the bird swat, in which the kitten administers a swat with one
paw before finishing off the prey. This game is best for people participation; just
dangle a rubber mouse or other object on the end of a string. Your cat will swat
at it and you'll be safe! What's more, this is a game most cats will play all their
lives.
Most important, your kitten wants YOU - please take the time to give them the
attention that they need.
