How much do kittens cost
Why are kittens so expensive
Visit a Cattery
Questions to ask a Breeder
First, put "pet shop" right out of your mind. No reputable breeder, of any kind of cat or dog, would
even consider selling an animal to a pet shop.
Kittens found in pet shops are from what would be considered "puppy mills" in the dog world. Pet
shop prices will always equal or exceed what a reputable breeder would charge. And you cannot
evaluate the conditions the kitten was raised in, or meet its parents, or other adults of the breed. It
is a massive mistake to think about "rescuing" a kitten from a pet shop.
Almost as bad are the backyard breeders (abbreviated BYB). These may be people who truly love
their animals, but have started out with pet quality cats (perhaps purchased from a pet shop) that
they breed together. They don't register the offspring, show their cats, or maintain any contact with
the breeding community at large. They do not necessarily provide the same level of research into
health issues, breeding their cats to the accepted Standards established for this breed, or socializing
their kittens. They have no intention of improving the breed, and they have no network of other
breeders to contact to help resolve a problem. Their pricing may be the same as that of reputable
breeders - but people end up paying for a cat with questionable heritage, that may or may not
resemble a purebred, with no knowledge of what health issues may be lurking in the ancestry of the
cat.
The price for a BYB kitten may be significantly lower than a kitten from a breeder, but like anything
else in life you get what you pay for. Quite frankly, if you think that the cost of the kitten is too
expensive, then you should not be considering getting any kitten. Cats and kittens are an
investment. An investment in time, love, and money. If you will not or cannot provide these
necessities - do everyone a favor and get yourself a stuffed animal. Proper kitten care includes
quality food (not Wall-Mart or Generic brands), cat toys, scratching posts, hairball remedies, vet
care, and lots of time and energy. Please read the section titled New Kitten Care Guide which will
explain what you may expect.
You must be willing and able to provide this care. After all - you are going to pay a good price for
your new pet - you want to do everything that you can to get the best return on your money. Many
times, a potential buyer is rejected by breeders because we fear that the the buyer will not be able
to provide what we feel is required. Yes, breeders often refuse to let kittens go to people based
only on an initial visit or phone call. Please read the sections regarding getting ready for your new
pet and the letter that is linked below.
See the sections on "Questions to Ask the Breeder" and "Visiting a Cattery" for some ways to
make sure you are dealing with a reputable breeder.
The very best place to find a kitten is by attending a cat show in your area. No, the kittens
themselves may not be there, but the most important thing is finding a breeder that you trust and
want to work with. You can find out about cat shows in your area by reviewing the show schedule
in Cat Fancy magazine, or by calling the Cat Fancier's Association (CFA), who can refer you to
shows and breeders in your area. The phone number is (732)
528-9797. Our by using the CFA link on my web page or by clicking here.
Cats are also advertised in various magazines - Cat Fancy, Cats USA, Cats, and in the local
newspapers. Many legitimate breeders advertise in all of these publications, but there may also be
BYB's - so you will need to ask plenty of questions first.
How Much Does a Kitten Cost?
This varies greatly depending on the area. Generally, the kittens are more expensive on the East
and West Coasts, less in the Midwest. In the Central New York area, pet quality kittens range
from $400 - $l000. And you DO want a pet quality kitten. Good breeders have a long waiting list
from other established breeders for top show quality kittens, and are unwilling to sell their "cream of
the crop" kittens to pet homes. Beware any breeder who tells you that every kitten they produce is
a "Top Show Quality" kitten. However, feel free to ask the breeder to show you the difference
between pet and show - you'll be surprised. This has nothing to do with size, beauty, or
temperament. The factors that determine the difference are so slight that only experienced breeders
and judges can distinguish - and even then, most breeders agonize over whether or not they are
making the correct evaluation.
This difference could mean that the tail is an inch too short, or has a slight kink. A white spot on the
chest, ears or eyes set a fraction of an inch too close or far apart, eyes that slant just slightly too far
up or down, even just the expression in a cat's face....these make cats "pets" rather than "show".
You may actually prefer the pets to the show cats! Sometimes, the kitten IS technically "perfect"
(or close), but the breeder just does not want that particular "look" to represent their cattery, or
they may have a breeding restriction set down by the breeders of the kitten's parents. But ask to
see the difference - you'll be surprised. Pet Quality kittens are certainly not inferior cats.
The price of the kitten will include the first two FVRCP vaccinations, and at least one veterinary
exam given before it leaves the breeder. Shipping costs will be extra. You will be expected to
provide a carrier and a mandatory vet visit under most contracts.
Why Are Kittens So Expensive
(a common, but often unasked, question)
While BYB's and pet shops may make money selling kittens, most legitimate breeders do not even
cover their own costs. It's a very expensive hobby. Most of us WISH we could just break even,
but can't. It may look like a gold mine to you, but let's go through the expenses involved and you'll
see that turning a profit would be a rare event for a breeder. We do this for love of cats, not money
(and most of us hide the REAL expenses from our spouses!).
As an example, buying a top show quality female, with breeding rights (which may have restrictions
on how we can sell the kittens), may cost $800 to more than $l000. Males are more. Showing her
to the preliminary title of "Champion" can add another $500-$2000 to the investment. Showing a
male or female to the title of Grand Champion, or Regional/National Winner, can be from $1000 to
more than $20,000! Maintenance, supplies and veterinary care generally cost breeders about $500
per cat per year. By the time a cat is first bred, at about a year old, the breeder will have invested
several thousand dollars. Then there is a stud fee for the breeding, which may be $500 - $l000 per
litter. Kitten shots cost breeders about $l00 per kitten - and that's if there are NO problems to be
treated. Kittens stay with breeders for 3 months or so, and have to be fed, cuddled, and
cleaned-up-after for all that time. Separate, special areas of the house are often customized for the
cats to use as a cattery or nursery - and some cattery set-ups cost $5,000 or more to build. If all
goes well, fat healthy kittens are born - but there are always the disasters, such as C-sections that
run $750 and up. Sometimes, after all the investment is made, a cat is found to be infertile.
Good breeders make a huge investment into "doing it right", by having the right breeding cats and
facilities. Both pet shops and BYB's reap profits, by cutting corners (not having quality cats as
parents, not showing, not keeping kittens until the proper age or providing proper prenatal and
kitten veterinary care) - and then they charge the same price as the reputable breeders. And those
caring, professional breeders make huge sacrifices in their personal lives, and shed lots of tears, in
trying to create successful breeding programs. BYB's are "one hit wonders" - they take your money
and are gone. Most legitimate breeders are going to be pretty darn annoyed if you neglect to send
photos and check in once in awhile!
For more information about the cost of breeding click here.
Visiting a Cattery
You are well advised to shop around. All kittens are cute (repeat this in your head over and over as
you cuddle kittens). All of them! It's hard to stay objective, but you are selecting a companion that
should hopefully be with you for the next fifteen years or so - an expensive companion at that. It's
really hard not to fall in love - and especially if a kitten falls in love with YOU! That's usually a good
indication, kittens are very smart. But you should make the BEST choice, not the fastest choice.
Plan to meet the breeders at their home. Visit the cattery, meet the adults, including the parents (if
the breeder used an outside stud, the dad might not be there).
Is it clean? Sure, if the breeder has ten cats, you may detect a bit of litter box odor - but do the
boxes look like they have been properly maintained (recently scooped)? Do the food and water
dishes look clean? Cats can trash a place in mere moments, so don't be expecting perfection - but
DO expect to see that care has been taken in maintaining the facilities. If the breeder has stud
males, they HAVE to be confined in most cases - even if they don't spray, they will surely manage
to breed their sisters or moms if not confined. And you may smell male cat odor - well, the males
do that, and they are proud of it. But the smell should not make you gasp for breath. Despite being
confined, you should be able to see that the studs have adequate space to stretch, sleep, and play.
By and large, stud males are aggressively friendly cats, who should be anxious to make your
acquaintance. They are usually retired show cats, who necessarily are by nature friendly, trusting,
and affectionate animals. Sometimes they may indicate their friendliness by taking a nip out of your
arm, but rest assured this is an overexcited response - a love bite. Females - well, give them a
break - almost every one of them will have good days and bad. They seem to get PMS once in
awhile. But if you see three females who are throwing themselves at your feet, and one glaring at
you from the top of a cabinet, assume that the ONE girl is having a bad day.
It's really important that the breeder's adult cats be friendly and curious. Give them a few moments
to get used to you, but you should EXPECT that most, if not all, of the adults should be anxious to
meet you. These cats are the example of what the breeder is doing. If most of the cats slink by,
nervous and scared, or the breeder has to drag the parents out from under the couch, beware.
Retired show cats are generally very anxious for attention - after all, they were trained to revel in
the adulation of large crowds of people. Mom cats, by the way, are not usually too protective of
their kittens - usually, they are trying to push themselves in front of their kittens to get your attention,
not to protect their kittens.
Check out the parents. There are many styles to choose from, from a "sweet" look to very "feral".
You should choose the style, sex, and color you are most attracted to - although, if it really doesn't
matter for any other reason, you should definitely go for the kitten who "picks" you. They sense
something special, a bond, and are never wrong! Breeders may have waiting lists, which is not a
bad thing, for particular colors or sexes. But don't despair. If you are a bit flexible, you will get your
kitten sooner. And waiting lists have a habit of being flexible - someone will wait nine months for a
blue male, walk in to choose their kitten, and get "chosen" by a seal female. Waiting lists only mean
that a breeder has been evaluated before, and found desirable by others.
See how the kittens are raised. No, cages are not necessarily a bad thing if they are used by
breeders in specific situations, such as keeping two litters apart from each other until they both have
been vaccinated. Sometimes two females who have kittens can't be together due to territorial
issues. But if kittens are being raised in a remote part of the house, mostly by the mom-cat, they
might not be well-socialized. There should not be a dozen litters of kittens around - two or three
litters at once is a LOT for breeders to cope with. It takes a lot of time to raise every kitten.
And see their personalities. If you are viewing very young kittens, under 6 weeks of age, they might
be a bit timid. By ten weeks, you should have a hard time escaping from the room with your
shoelaces tied. The earlier you view the kittens, the more you should rely on your impression of the
adult cats. Most legitimate breeders can accurately identify different personality types in their kittens
by the age of l0-l3 weeks. If you have an unusual home situation - an aggressive dog, a dominant
female cat, a child who is too excitable - please please please listen to the breeder's
recommendation. We can usually be helpful in choosing the kitten with the right temperament for
each situation. If the breeder says "oh, they're all the same" - they are more interested in money
than matchmaking. They may all be appropriate to any situation, but they are ALL different.
So the most important part of your shopping should be identifying a breeder you want to work
with. The vast majority of kittens placed bounce right into their new homes, healthy and happy and
adjustable. But if you have a problem with your kitten, you need to have established a mutually
trusting relationship with the breeder. So make sure you feel comfortable with the breeder - hard to
believe, but it's more important in some ways than which kitten you pick out.
The most important question to be answered on a visit to a cattery is, "Do the breeding cats and
resulting kittens seem like beloved family members?" They should all be treated as pets, even if a
quasi-professional cattery facility exists. The adults should be friendly, clean and healthy, and
delighted to meet you. The kittens should be curious, healthy and affectionate. Most breeders have
some kind of health problems from time to time - so you might see a sneezy kitten once in awhile.
A good breeder will tell you what the problem is, what they are doing about it, and what they
expect the prognosis will be. A bad breeder will ignore or deny that a problem exists. Most
important? Shop around - do your homework on researching the breed - and trust your instinct.
Never, ever buy a kitten if you have any hesitation - there's lots to choose from. And if you shop
wisely, you will end up with a terrific kitten who will be the very best choice in the whole world,
and enhance your life for years to come. But be smart about it!
Questions to Ask a Breeder
You are making a big investment, in both money and time, and should make sure that you are
getting the very best kitten you can. Ask the following questions of any breeder you contact. A
vague answer or two might be expected, but most of these questions should be answered to your
satisfaction - or go elsewhere. And most of all, does the breeder seem friendly and anxious to
answer your questions? If they seem annoyed with you, move on. Most of us are proud of what we
do, and happy to hear from informed pet buyers who have done their research and are asking a lot
of questions - it makes us feel more confident in the commitment the pet buyer intends to make to
this kitten. Always ask, right up front, if this is a good time to talk. And remember, many of us
show on most weekends, so don't feel ignored if it takes a week or so to get a return phone call.
Always give a breeder two tries (leave messages) - don't give up if you don't hear from them five
minutes after your last call. Most breeders are courteous enough to return the call, even if they have
no kittens available right now - and most also are gracious enough to refer you to someone else in
the area if they have no kittens but know someone who does. Those are usually good
recommendations to follow.
l. Do you show your cats? Do you have a registered cattery? All legitimate breeders will answer
"yes" to both questions. Now, of course, there are exceptions to the first part - maybe the breeder
has recently moved, had a baby, or has some other legitimate reason for taking a break. It is NOT
an acceptable answer if the breeder proclaims there is no reason for showing.
Showing your cats is not about (necessarily) obtaining titles or acclaim for a cat, and experienced
exhibitors are not an elitist, unfriendly bunch. We show our cats to improve our breeding programs,
to subject our cats to the evaluation of judges and other exhibitors, and to maintain contacts with
the established breeding community, who share a wealth of knowledge about all aspects including
health problems. Showing is how we find appropriate outcrosses, compare our results to others,
share concerns, and develop a group of "shoulders to cry on" when we are having a problem. We
also have a darn good time!
There is no excuse for not having a registered cattery. If you don't know what this means, look at a
purebred cat's name - it has three parts. "Feng Shui's Talkin Toi of Cobban" is a typical example.
"Feng Shui", the first part, is the name of the registered breeder. The second part of the name,
"Talkin Toi", is the cat's name. The third part indicates the registered owner of the cat. If a cat is
kept by the original breeder, you won't see any "of" designation. The breeder's name is the most
important part. The name of the breeder follows the cat throughout its show career, and is on the
pedigrees forever. We take pride in our cats, and our cattery name is the identifier for many
generations to come. A BYB or pet shop could care less.
One other advantage to buying a kitten from a breeder who shows - since we can't determine who
is going to be "pet" and who is going to be "show" until much later, kittens ALL have to be raised
as potential show cats. This means they need to get used to bathing, grooming, claw clipping, riding
in the car, and greeting strangers at an early age. In addition, top show cats generally have a
superior disposition - they are trusting, laid-back, and fond of people in general. They pass these
qualities on to their kids in most cases. Show cats are necessarily bred for temperament.
2. Can I see the pedigree? You really don't know much about who those cats are in the pedigree,
but you sure as heck can identify a mother/son or brother/sister breeding. This can happen in the
finest cattery, and doesn't usually cause a problem - but we call these breedings "oops", and will tell
you that this was an accident. BYB's typically do a lot of "line breeding" or inbreeding, since
legitimate breeders won't sell them cats. So they tend to keep their own offspring, and then breed
back to its relatives out of necessity. Ask the breeder how they feel about line breeding - most of
us try very hard to use out crosses as much as possible, believing this is the healthiest combination
for the cats.
Reputable breeders will be happy to show you the pedigree, and are usually proud to point out the
many titled cats - champions, grand champions, regional or national winners - in your kitten's
background. Beware a pedigree that has lots of cats that have no cattery names prefixing the
ancestors. And these titles do mean something = that the cat has been repeatedly judged, by
several different judges, to meet the standard of the cat. At least one of your kitten's parents, if not
both, should have a title. One exception - the two major cat associations (CFA and TICA) do not
recognize each other's titles, so you may see one side of the CFA pedigree totally devoid of titles -
since the ancestors were shown only in TICA and may have been the best cats in the country in
that organization. But ask for an explanation.
3. What are the health problems of this breed? A bad answer is "none" - it's just not true. All
pedigreed animals have some potential inherited problems. The breeder should not only identify
these breed health problems, but should tell you what they are doing to try to prevent these things
from happening in their offspring. This is one reason the established show/breeders stay in touch -
we share information freely and often. BYB's may tell you that the breed is perfectly healthy and
that there is no problem. This is equivalent to the used-car salesmen telling you the car was only
driven by an old lady to church on Sundays. Beware.
4. How old will the kitten be before it comes home? 9-10 weeks is minimum, most breeders hold
kittens until 12 weeks or maybe longer. Kittens develop their sense of bonding with humans
between 2 and l0 weeks of age - it's wrong to break their bond to their FIRST "human" - the
breeder - any earlier. They also have not developed their immune systems or had their necessary
shots before 8-9 weeks of age. Any breeder selling kittens younger than this is more interested in
moving the kittens out and getting the money than in raising healthy, stable, happy kittens. At about
l2-l3 weeks, a kitten is going to be gaining a quarter to half pound a week, and is confident and
ready to bounce right into its new home with confidence. Don't worry - they may be "big", but they
are still "babies"!
5. Will the kitten be registered? It's kind of silly to have a purebred cat and not register it - the cost
is less than $l0. Generally, the breeder will provide the "blue slip", or official registration, when you
notify the breeder that the kitten has been neutered.
6. Will I get a contract and written health warranty? You should. And read the contract
specifications carefully. Most breeders will be requiring that the kitten be kept strictly indoors, not
declawed, not shown without permission, and neutered at a specific age. Another clause in most
contracts is that this kitten may not be transferred to anyone else without obtaining the breeder's
permission (hey, we interviewed YOU!)...and that, if for some reason you cannot keep this cat in
the future, the breeder must be given the opportunity to take the cat back and assist in finding it a
new home. This is because a nightmare to a legitimate breeder would be to find out that one of
his/her cherished kittens ended up in a pound. This should never, ever happen. Your health
warranty will spell out your rights. State laws vary, but most warranties will cover a specific period
of time for which the breeder remains liable. Check carefully over the specifics - and ask the
breeder if you have questions about it.
7. What if I want a show cat? Most breeders are happy to mentor someone through the show
process, once you have demonstrated a true commitment to the time and money required. The best
way to do this is to buy a "show quality cat", neuter it, and show it in premiership ( the neutered cat
equivalent to championship). If you get hit with the show bug, you'll have a lot of contacts and
experience if you then decide to go ahead and establish a breeding program.
8. What if I want to breed? A BYB will be happy to sell you breeding rights to the cat for extra
money. Don't do it. First, you will find it impossible to find a stud cat for your female from a
legitimate breeder to breed to. The converse is, no legitimate breeder is going to want to obtain
stud service from your male either. Legitimate breeders get these calls all the time - and none of us
believe in just plain" breeding for the sake of breeding". We think that the majority of breeding cats
should be titled - and the chance of you having gotten a true show quality cat from a BYB is about
zero. You will not have had a mentor with experience with the established show/breeding
community, and by selling you breeding rights, the BYB has created another BYB - you! If you
really think you want to be a breeder, then you need to do a lot of research and learning, and you
need to do that by becoming involved in the established community of breeders and exhibitors. You
will also find that being a BYB is difficult, with an educated public. This is not a way to make
money, and the "joy" of having kittens around is balanced - sometimes inequitably - with the
tragedies. It takes a strong stomach to survive the bad times. If you are SURE you want to be a
breeder, then get the very best start you can, by working with the very best breeder you can find,
to mentor you and help you along.
9. Do you give your own shots? This answer can surely be "yes", but be careful. Many experienced
breeders give their own shots, but they should also be making sure that each kitten has at least one
veterinary exam before it goes. In some states, health certificates must be obtained from the vet
before the kitten can be sold. Don't buy a kitten that has not been examined by a veterinarian. Back
to the used car example, you definitely would want a mechanic to check the car out first to make
sure no serious damage already exists!
And finally, there are surely Questions the Breeder Should Ask You!
A good breeder is trying hard to make sure that the kittens get great new parents, and that the
parents get an affectionate, healthy and beautiful kitten that fits into their lifestyle. They will want to
know if you have children - and if so, how old are the kids and what is their experience with
animals so far? Do you have other pets? How did you lose your last cat? Are any of the cats in
your home allowed outdoors? Do you have a veterinarian? Don't be surprised if some of the
questions seem personal - these kittens are not commodities to the reputable breeder. They are
little lives that we have planned, assisted in their births, raised with love, and probably have slept on
our heads for the past three months. We want to make sure they are going to great new homes, or
we would prefer to keep them ourselves. Beware the breeder who asks you no questions -
because it is obvious that they are more concerned with the money than in giving a kitten a fabulous
new home, and the parents a fabulous new fur child.
